Refined opulence and luxury provide the foundations for AW 12/13 as we look to the Middle East for inspiration, paying close attention to its ardency for decadent living and design. The current market for Muslim-inspired fashion is estimated to be worth over $96 billion per year, while major players, such as Gucci and Giorgio Armani, who serve up a pastiche of Middle Eastern influences on the runway, confirm a burgeoning global appeal. ‘Myriad’ absorbs these coveted themes in a sumptuous trend, stripped-back for contemporary appeal. An ultra-chic style ethos reigns as cutting-edge tailoring adopts a quietly exotic silhouette, employing subtle references from Western Asia and North Africa. Long-line layers are crucial, reminiscent of traditional hijab and djellaba robes. Ankle-grazing tailored jackets sport characteristic side vents while re-worked smock and nehru-collared shirts come in crisp organic cotton and silk.
Sparkle and embellishment are rendered sparingly, evoking the Arabian penchant for glamour and decoration; sporadic interwoven metallic threads and a peppering of micro crystals ensure a modern veneer. Fresh white, camel and Saharan twilight blue are used in clean blocks, occasionally softened with a hand-crafted finish. Here laser-cuts beadwork and tonal knit patterns mimic the hypnotising geometrics of Middle-Eastern design. Giorgio Armani’s Saharan nomad collection for SS11 proffers inspiration with shaded navy hues and a dusting of sequins referencing thematic ideas in a viable way. Luxury layers communicate an urban identity as tailored and jersey dropped crotch pants are teamed with contemporary staples such as a fitted leather biker jacket, while ‘Lawrence of Arabia’ becomes a fashion icon pushing desert utility looks. Flak-style vests, jumpsuits and silky cargo pants are integral items while tureg inspired head-wraps and cut glass jewellery finish trend-led looks.
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