26 February 2010
swedish styling
all-nighters
What do you do when the world’s asleep and you’re awake? All-Nighters is an exploration of an ancient malady and modern fixation — insomnia. With contributions from writers, scientists, artists and others, it will document the many ways we approach sleeplessness — as a nuisance, a disease, a curse, an opportunity or even a gift.
A mesmerizing mix of personal insight, science and social observation, Wide Awake examines the role of sleep in our increasingly hyperactive culture. For the millions who suffer from sleepless nights and hazy caffeine-filled days, this humorous, thought-provoking and ultimately hopeful book is an essential bedtime companion. It does, however, come with a warning: Reading it will promote wakefulness.
25 February 2010
one dupatta, du dupatta
The long scarves that many wear with traditional shalwar kameez outfits are laden with religious and cultural significance. For some it's a sign of Islamic modesty, for others a cumbersome relic.
Reporting from Karachi, Pakistan - Seeking a competitive edge, fabric designer Vaneeza Ahmad spent hours on the phone to China but couldn't find anyone to make her new line of dupattas, the omnipresent scarves that Pakistani women drape over their arms, head, chest.
shoes as sign of economic status
By Natalie Armstrong
TORONTO (Reuters Life!) - Centuries before Sarah Palin and Michelle Obama were sized up over their shoes women's feet had been a platform for showing off their economic and political status.
A new exhibit of more than 60 pairs of rare platform and high heel shoes shows how extreme and impractical footwear became a fashionable symbol of social standing in the 16th and 17th centuries.
"This really is a once in a lifetime opportunity to see these truly incredible pedestals that women walked on," said Elizabeth Semmelhack, senior curator at the Bata Shoe Museum.
The exhibit, "On a Pedestal: From Renaissance Chopines to Baroque Heels", includes footwear on loan from 11 international museums. It will be open until September 20.
"The shoes themselves, because they were hidden under women's skirts, were not even visible at the time. When you go and look at Renaissance painting you see these incredibly tall women but you can't see the chopines," said Semmelhack.
"We're lifting the skirts of these women and letting you see these accessories that link very closely to economics, gender and politics -- not just high fashion."
The chopine platform shoe is a columnar shape that "rises the wearer up as a single unit," according to Semmelhack. A pair of Venetian chopines in the exhibit is nearly 20 inches tall.
She said the shoes of upper-class women and courtesans rose to unprecedented heights in Italy and Spain during the 16th and 17th centuries. They were used to display family wealth, especially in Venice and Florence where the textile industry was important.
LOFTY HEIGHTS
The taller the platform shoe, the more dress fabric needed and the wealthier the family, she explained.
"Excessively high chopines in Italy offered the opportunity for more fabric to be displayed but it also offered the opportunity for servants to be displayed," Semmelhack said.
"Women wearing excessively high chopines could not manage to walk without the assistance of at least two servants. In fact, the reason why men still offer women their arm today dates back to when women wore chopines and needed that little extra help to be able to go forward."
She described 16th-century Italian chopines as "a form of foundation garment, the same way corsets used to be worn in the 19th century or women wear Spanx (underwear) today to reshape their body. They were a form of footwear that was not meant to be seen so much as to elongate the body."
But in Spain chopines peeked out from under skirts.
"Spanish chopines tend to be excessively decorated, very visible, very flashy, much more equivalent to a pair of Manolo Blahniks today than the Italian chopine which was completely concealed and not as decorated," said Semmelhack.
By the 17th century the chopine was replaced by the high heel after explorers discovered new routes between Europe and the East and Venice became less important.
"That's where I explore the history of the introduction of the heel into western dress and the shifts to England and Spain as the most important countries and eventually ending with France," Semmelhack said, adding the political connection between England and Persia increased interest in the heel.
Men also embraced the heel in the 17th century due to influences from the near East. Except for horseback riding and a blip in the 1970s, heels have been a woman's accessory.
"They are now increasingly carrying larger burdens of expressing our wealth, and our femininity and our sexuality," Semmelhack said.
"It can also be related to socioeconomic status and the fact that everyone has two feet means it is a huge business."
The Bata Shoe Museum, home to 13,000 pairs of footwear worn over the past 4,500 years, examines the social and cultural life of people through footwear.
24 February 2010
profile in style :: diane keaton
priscilla woolworth's general store
23 February 2010
on reading - a photographic exhibition
André Kertész: On ReadingFeb. 21 – April 18, 2010at theCarlsbad Dove Library
A prominent member of Henri Cartier-Bresson’s circle in 1920’s Paris, André Kertész created a series of photographs in Europe and the US, examining the power of reading as a universal pleasure. These 104 stunning photographs are drawn from the collection of the Museum of Contemporary Photography, Columbia College, Chicago.
Known for his extended study of Washington Square Park and his distorted nudes of the 1930s, Andre Kertesz was a quiet but important influence on the coming of age of photojournalism and the art of photography. For more than seventy years, his subtle and penetrating vision helped to define a medium in its infancy. Though he spent most of his life in the United States, his European modernist sensibility is what made him great, and that is what he is remembered for today.
For nearly twenty years his gifts remained relatively unrecognized in New York. It was not until 1964, when John Sarkowski, curator at the Museum of Modern Art, organized a one man show that Kertesz’s career was reawakened. Over the preceding years, art photography in the United States made serious leaps and began to recognize the advances of earlier European artists. It was this renewed interest that eventually brought an otherwise forgotten genius back into the public eye. Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, Kertesz was shown regularly at the major international museums — having one-man shows in Paris, Tokyo, London, Stockholm, Budapest and Helsinki. In 1983 the French government awarded him the Legion of Honor, and the following year he passed away in his New York home. Very few artists are able to witness the formation of their own artistic medium. Kertesz was not only able to witness much of the beginnings of hand-held photography, but had a profound effect on it. With subtle and whimsical artistry, he took full advantage of a medium not yet sure of its own potential, and for that, contemporary photography remains in his debt.
In January 1999 he was the subject of the PBS series American Masters.
The book about the exhibit was re-released in 2008 and is available at Amazon.22 February 2010
the dalai lama speaks
"At the fundamental level, we are the same human being," he said. "Mentally, emotionally, physically -- same."
roger ebert surfaces
Patrick Goldstein writes in the LA Times:
But he's a writer, so he keeps writing and writing, better and better than ever. His reviews remain a must-read, as are his blog posts, which range from acerbic political observations to delightful personal remembrances of his youth. After reading the Esquire piece, I suspected that Ebert would be unable to resist offering his own personal reaction to the story. And sure enough, it's up on his blog now, and is just as absorbing as the original Esquire feature.
Read more here.
19 February 2010
olympics opening ceremony
k d lang sang a beautiful rendition of Hallelujah by Leonard Cohen (also Canadian) at the opening ceremony last Friday. What a powerful voice!
ny fashion week round-up
By Ellen Wulfhorst
NEW YORK (Reuters) - Dominant colors in the coming fall and winter fashion season will be solemn grays, browns and plenty of black, reflecting a no-nonsense mood among consumers and designers struggling in the dismal economy, judging from collections unveiled this week in New York.
Just a few splashes of fruit, spice and jewel tones lit up otherwise dark collections from the scores of designers who displayed their fall and winter 2010 lines at the semi-annual fashion event.
Such dark tones are a sign of the times, said Marigay McKee, fashion and beauty director at Harrods.
"New York has been a monochromatic story for the last couple of seasons," she said. "Obviously the economic events of the last couple of years affect the way designers put together their collections and what customers are looking for."
Indeed, in the collection by designer Tony Cohen, showing in New York from the Netherlands, nearly every look was black. In styles by Luca Luca, gray dominated, and Canada's Mackage used mostly black, camel and deep blue.
"It's a gloomy season for the most part," said Judy Licht, who covers fashion for the Huffington Post. "I'm seeing a lot of black and neutral creams, navys and grays."
Designer Michael Angel used midnight blue, and Brazil's Iodice stuck largely to black and beige, with just a splash of tangerine.
PLAYING IT SAFE
"Black is the signature color," is how New York designer Nicole Miller described her line. "Also camouflage and hints of brick, olive and ash."
Designers are playing it safe with an emphasis on such dark hues, said James Aguilar, a spokesman for Prime Outlets which carries designer lines.
"Black always sells. The challenge there is you don't want to see a rack of just black clothes," he said. "Retailers are still going to have to get that item that pops and makes the collection come to life."
Using dark tones he called caramel, ochre, olive, putty, charcoal and mocha, designer Adam Lippes brightened his collection with splashes of crimson.
Donna Karan's DKNY line showed black, charcoal, umber and oxblood with accents of sapphire blue and peach.
Olive green and browns imbued with deep red and purple, are appealing, said Ken Downing, fashion director at Neiman Marcus.
"We think the customer's going to be very interested in this whole idea of these olive colors and these deep, deep browns as the new neutral for the season," Downing said.
Accent colors tended toward shades of berries, spices and sunsets. The Ports 1961 collection used colors labeled mulberry, rosemary, chicory, pepper, sage and ginger.
Colleen Sherin, fashion director of Saks Fifth Avenue, said she welcomed the accent colors to inspire consumers to spice up their wardrobes.
"Color elicits an emotional response in the consumer," she said.
18 February 2010
finally!
clever idea
17 February 2010
dreaming of umbria
Loc Moravola Alta, Voc San Faustino, Montone
Perugia, Italy
Italy isn’t exactly hurting for impressive small hotels, but Torre di Moravola stands out all the same. It is a thousand-year-old Umbrian hilltop watchtower converted into a seven-room boutique hotel. But while the exterior may be a thousand years old, the interiors are as modern as they come.
It may have a little something to do with the owners. Christopher Chong is an architect, a former Norman Foster associate, and his wife, Seonaid Mackenzie, is a designer. And what they’ve done is more than a renovation. Within the outer shell of the tower they’ve constructed an entirely new inner structure, with seven strikingly modern suites arranged around a central stair.
This turns out to be a surprisingly green way to build. The old stone walls keep temperatures stable, and the central stair gives rise to convection currents which ventilate as well as any air conditioning system. And the suites, with their stone walls and sunken baths, stay remarkably comfortable, despite their minimalism.
Most unexpected, perhaps, is the rooftop infinity pool, with obviously wide-ranging views of the tower’s surroundings. The restaurant follows the slow food philosophy, and you’re minutes from the ancient town of Montone, which offers other options, none of them particularly fast. As Italian countryside getaways go, it’s hard to do much better — and as a design pilgrimage it’s practically a religious experience.
retro-garden photography
The Hipstamatic application puts a filter on iPhone photos to make them look as though they were taken with an unreliable plastic camera from the 1960s, rather than this complex mobile smart phone. The interface, pictured above, is designed to look like one of those cheap cameras, which adds to the fun.
The Hipstamatic effect gives an instant haze of memory to the photos, as though you are seeing whatever is before you through the filter of a dream. The functionality however, is completely 2010: You can instantly upload photos to Facebook or Flickr. The two photos below are from my first shoot at the Descanso Gardens on Saturday afternoon.
The hipstamatic app is $1.99 at the iTunes App Store. Once you have the app, you can also purchase additional "film," "flashes" and "lenses" (technically each a different digital filter) for 99 cents each.
-- Deborah Netburn
Photos: (top) Hipstamatic iPhone interface. Credit: Hipstamatic
via the LA Times
rustic table
16 February 2010
wright auction
On Sunday, a collection of Frank Lloyd Wright photographs, drawings and documents from the estate of Wright scholar Henry-Russell Hitchcock sold for $48,800 at a Bonhams & Butterfields auction in Los Angeles.
The winning bid -- more than 20% above the high end of the pre-auction estimate of $30,000 to $40,000 -- was made by the Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation. The organization is based at Taliesin West, the architect's residence and studio in Scottsdale, Ariz., from 1937 until his death there in 1959.
Catherine Williamson, director of fine books and manuscripts at Bonhams & Butterfields, called the sale "surprising in a good way." The foundation's purchase fulfills two functions, she said. "The material is a rich archival source and will attract a lot of scholars, and the material is also appropriate for display."
Compiled during Hitchcock's collaboration with Wright on the 1942 book "In the Nature of Materials: The Buildings of Frank Lloyd Wright," the 1,000-plus-piece collection will expand the foundation's archives, said Daniel Marquardt, chairman of the board of the Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation. "It's an important snapshot into Wright's world view and philosophy at that particular period."
The works will be available for viewing by appointment at the Taliesin West archives. They also will be among the documents that the foundation loans out to museum exhibitions around the world.
-- David A. Keeps
via the LA Times
15 February 2010
my kind of camping
12 February 2010
diy :: valentine's day origami
via eat drink chic